Delectable kebabs, scented biryani, and whipped, ethereal desserts.
The historic city in northern India of Lucknow has forever been a haven for gastronomes, with locals and tourists alike swearing by its exquisite cuisine.
An International Accolade
In a recent announcement, Unesco designated it as a Creative City of Gastronomy – placing it on a prestigious roster of global cities and sparking hopes that it will highlight Lucknow's peerless food. With this designation, it enters a worldwide network of more than four hundred cities across more than 100 countries dedicated to promoting "innovation as a catalyst of sustainable urban development".
The honor "stands as proof of its profound culinary traditions and lively gastronomic culture," according to a representative from Unesco's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is merely the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was chosen in 2019 – to find a place in this prestigious list of 70 global destinations around the world.
A City Defined by Food
The accolade for this time-honored city is little surprise to its residents or passionate food lovers. Many agree with the opinion that it is "a recognition that was delayed".
With the UNESCO accolade, this adored, bustling, and vibrant city – the administrative center of India's most populous state – is at last in the limelight for what has always shaped its essence: an profound devotion for food.
"'The day's menu, how will it be cooked' is a continued discussion from morning until going to bed in many homes," states a local cultural expert. "And you are truly assessed by the quality of food that emerges from your kitchen."
An Imperial Food Tradition
The Nawabi City – as it's popularly called after its 18th and 19th Century wealthy Muslim rulers – is famed for its succulent kebabs and a distinctive take on biryani that were invented, evolved, and elevated to exquisite levels in their opulent kitchens.
These royal kitchens were centers of food experimentation, blending Iranian and local Indian styles to create what became known as the food of Awadh.
It was in this era that Lucknow's renowned kebabs were fashioned. Legend has it that the mutton galouti was devised to feed an ageing nawab who had lost his teeth. His culinary artists processed the meat with papaya, saffron, and a blend of spices and made it so soft that it required no chewing.
But perhaps the most significant contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a gentle, slow heat, with the pot's lid securely closed with a flour paste.
A Diverse Culinary Landscape
In addition to the famous kebabs and biryani, the cooks also built up a repertoire of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a rich bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not just about kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a haven for vegetarians.
The local Baniya community's cuisine not only highlights seasonal produce but also offers the city its meticulously prepared Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – tangy fried snacks.
Hidden Gems and Legacy Eateries
Nearly on many street corners, there are small establishments and stalls – lesser-known treasures that are extremely loved by the locals.
In the central district of Hazratganj, large gatherings start assembling from early morning at a renowned tea stall to get a piping hot cup of milky masala chai, served in clay glasses, along with pillowy soft buns lathered with hand-churned white butter.
For breakfast, one can visit a no-frills joint operating in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was founded, the place is still much sought-after for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Safeguarding a Culinary Heritage
The city also offers special seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a airy dessert available in the winter. The technique of making it is intricate and complicated. The artisan beats the milk and then sets it out at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its unique light consistency.
On chilly mornings, street vendors line up in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. Many however note that their children are unwilling to take up the skill.
A well-known culinary expert from Lucknow has noted that the city's profound food legacy positions it right on top of the Indian street food experience. The real value from the UNESCO recognition, however, will be realized only if Lucknow can now create awareness about its hidden eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow has a narrative – influenced by multi-generational food businesses, from modest street carts to bustling restaurants, and guarded family recipes.
The worldwide honor, it is anticipated, will encourage more people worldwide to learn these stories and experience the city to savour the gastronomic treasures of Lucknow.
